• 01of 14

    Wire Wrapping Beads to Store Bought Hoops

     Lisa Yang

    These wire wrapped earrings showcase simple round gemstone beads. This is a great project to learn the basic skill of wiring beads to a hoop or frame. There are a few tricks that you need to learn to make them even (and to make it easier) but once you master those, you will want to add beads to all of the hoops you own.

    Wrapping beads to a frame is easier in this project than others because the frame is large, making it easier to pull the wrapping wire through without it getting caught or kinking.

  • 02of 14

    Wire Wrapped Beaded Hoop Earring Materials

     Lisa Yang

    To make wire wrapped beaded hoops, you will need one pair of hoop earrings. This example uses 1.5 inch round hoops with a built-in hinged closure. A larger size hoop is easier to work with when you are just learning since it will be easier to hold and pull the wire around the hoop.

    A couple of other things to look for in the hoops: hoops made from a tube are better than ones made from a piece of wire. They are a little thicker and give an edge for the beads to sit on. Another nice feature if you can find it is if there is a small lip where the earring post joins the tube. This helps keep the wire wrap in place so it does not slide on the post.

    The hoops in this example are slightly over 1 mm thick. You can purchase hoops like these in retail accessory stores or jewelry craft supply stores. Ours are from Fire Mountain Gems, but they no longer carry them in gold tone, only in stainless steel.

    In addition to the hoops, you will need about 24 inches of 24 gauge wire for each hoop. The exact amount of wire will depend on the size of your hoop and the size and number of beads you are going to use. If you are using similarly sized hoops, start with 24 inches of wire and measure the amount you have left after the first hoop to get a more precise measure.

    Buy 24 Gauge Gold Colored Craft Wire at Amazon.com

    You will need round gemstone beads that are between 2 mm and 3mm in diameter. The turquoise hoops use just under fifty 2 millimeter beads for the pair. The carnelian hoops use just under forty 3 millimeter beads for the pair.

    Last, you will need basic wirework tools such as flat nose pliers and wire cutters.

  • 03of 14

    Start Wrapping the Hoop With Wire and Beads

     Lisa Yang

    Leaving about a one-inch tail, start to wrap the wire around the hoop near the post at least two or three times. This is similar to the wrapping motion you use when making a wire wrapped loop.

    It needs to be wrapped firmly around, although if your hoops are perfectly round, it will still be able to slide around the hoop. This is not a problem. You will be wrapping the wire without overlapping going towards the back side of the hoop.​

    After wrapping the wire, pick up one gemstone bead. The wire should be coming from the side of the hoop, not on the top. As you are wrapping the wire, you will move the beads over on the front of the hoop.

    Just like using a larger hoop is easier to hold, it is easier to learn to wrap the beads using smaller beads rather than larger beads. If you can start with 2 mm beads.

  • 04of 14

    Wrap the Bead in Place

     Lisa Yang

    As you wrap the wire over the front of the hoop, position the bead on the top front of the hoop. Wrap the wire around the hoop by pulling the wire through the center. Make at least a full wrap around the hoop before getting in position to add another bead.

  • 05of 14

    Positioning the Wire and Bead

     Lisa Yang

    Each time you pick up a bead, make sure the wire is positioned to the side of the hoop. Rather than sliding the bead all the way down the wire, move it up a little so it sits on top of the hoop. If you were to move the bead out of position, you would notice the wire has a small bend like you see in this picture. The wire needs to be in this position in order for the wire to enter and exit the bead with the holes on the sides and not visible from the front of the hoop.

  • 06of 14

    Pulling the Wire Around the Hoop

     Lisa Yang

    Each time you secure a bead, you will need to pull the end of the wire through the center of the hoop. Make sure you don’t cause any kinks in the wire or let it get caught on any of the beads. If the wire gets bent, it is more likely to break and very difficult to slide the beads over. You may even have to cut off the beads and wire and start over.

    It is easiest to pull the wire through the loop with your finger as shown in this picture. This is another reason starting with a larger hoop is easier when you first try to make this project.

  • 07of 14

    Adjusting the Beads

     Lisa Yang

    As you add beads, you will be able to adjust the spacing between the beads by pushing them closer together or nudging them a little further apart. You can also twist them slightly so they lay at the same angle.

  • 08of 14

    Finishing the Wire Tails

     Lisa Yang

    When you are done wrapping, you will need to secure the tail wires so they cannot loosen or scratch anyone. Starting with the working piece of wire that you have been working with, wrap it around the earrings 3 or 4 times. This helps keep the beads in place as well as gives a little area for the end of the wire to tuck into.

  • 09of 14

    Trim the Working Wire

     Lisa Yang

    Trim the working wire using wire flush cutters at a point underneath the hoop so it cannot be seen. Using flush-cutters is helpful because it allows you to get close to the work and get a flat, not pointed, end on the wire.

    Use your flat nose pliers to press the cut end in place and to secure the wraps so they don’t slide easily. Your flat nose pliers should be smooth inside the jaws so they cannot mar the wire. And be careful not to break any of the beads!

  • 10of 14

    Finish the Start of the Wire

     Lisa Yang

    To finish the wire end near the post, wrap it one or two more times if desired. Tuck the end of the wire in the small space under the first bead wrap as shown in the picture. This will help keep the wire from coming loose.

  • 11of 14

    Pull the Wire Taut

     Lisa Yang

    Using flat nosed pliers, pull the wire so the coil wraps tightly around the hoop. This will keep the end safely tucked in place. Trim the wire so it is held in place by the bead wrap. You may still want to use the flat nosed pliers to press on the wire wrap and keep it in place.

  • 12of 14

    Gemstone Wire Wrapped Hoops

     Lisa Yang

    Enjoy your new gemstone bead hoops!

    These hoops are quick to make once you get the hang of positioning the beads and very versatile. They can be made with a variety of beads, including faceted rondelles, but different bead shapes and sizes are a little more challenging since the beads can twist and be harder to line up consistently on the hoop frame.

  • 13of 14

    Alternative Ways to Wrap the Hoops

     Lisa Yang

    Once you are good at wrapping beads to a wire frame, you may want to try some variations. The black gemstone hoop switches the beads to the inside of the frame halfway around. This may look strange when the earrings are viewed from the side, but when you view them from the front, you will see that the gemstone beads are visible going down the front edge and up with the back edge of the hoop.

    Continue to 14 of 14 below.
  • 14of 14

    Inside and Outside Edge Gemstone Hoops

     Lisa Yang

    This gemstone hoop variation is a little more advanced to make but uses the same wire-wrap technique. It is only tricky deciding where on the hoop to change to adding the beads to the inside and getting used to lining them up on that edge.

    For more wire wrap hoop variations, try the confetti beaded hoop project.